Martine Sitbon opened her show with a zippy group of salt-and-pepper knitwear, unusual textures being a common thread across this dress-centric collection with a perfume of the Twenties. There were zippered jackets and curve-hugging tube dresses with the insouciant Parisian style one expects from this seasoned designer. Also in this vein were cool, cardiganlike jackets in bouclé fabrics with a glossy, caviar-like texture. But then Sitbon got experimental, laser-cutting doilylike patterns into stiff, feltlike fabrics, and paving satin baseball jackets and pencil skirts in bold, abstract floral prints. She fared better with her signature crafty touches, embroidering beige yarns onto little black dresses, or decorating filmy silk dresses with delicate cutouts and smocking details.