A wan Kristen McMenamy drifted through Stationers’ Hall like a sleepwalker from the Middle Ages, the ballooning sleeves of her white gown almost brushing the audience that was seated on benches in tightly spaced rows.

It set the scene for Giles Deacon’s haute pajama party, where ballgowns were equally welcome and occasionally topped off with a floppy, oversize knit hat. The looks in luscious silks — minus the conical studs now seen all over the high street — were dreamy. Sharp-shouldered blouses flowed over loose trousers or were tucked into bustier dresses, and languid, sexy dresses came with draped backs.

Laser-cut leathers, a Deacon specialty, came in gold — London’s favorite metallic — with feather decorations dangling from the hems. The most fetching and impactful looks were the simplest, such as a gown with a golden bodice of tightly woven leather and a long, flowing white skirt.