Henry Holland’s trademark tongue-in-cheek, bad taste aesthetic evolved this season into a grown-up, often sophisticated collection called “Nana Rave,” inspired by the acid rave scene of the late Eighties. The dresses were the best bits, tailored in psychedelic, swirly soft furnishing fabrics or made from printed silk. The designer added crystal embellishments — motifs included martini glasses, cigarettes, and bumblebees to fine knitwear and prim dresses. Wet-look leather pieces looked trashy, however.

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