Whether on the back of a PR girl’s clipboard or on the willowy frame of a Russian blogger, Mary Katrantzou’s kaleidoscopic, photo-based prints are unmistakable — and can be overwhelming.
Which is why her fall collection — inspired by early landscape images by the likes of Edward Steichen and Alfred Stieglitz — should open her fashion universe to a broader clientele, including the still-enamored-with-black fashion pack. Shadowy black-and-white and sepia-toned prints of bridges and trees looked terrific embedded in fluffy oversized knits, or blurred on to tubular coats.
But the shapes were often tricky. Katrantzou went experimental with stiff, jutting sleeves, and origami wrapping that occasionally made her clothes seem like signboards for the melancholy patterns.
The strongest looks got the balance right, as in the opening asymmetrical cape and dress, the trusses of bridges woven into the tweed-like fabric. One cozy sweater scintillated like the Eiffel tower.