This was a big collection with a clutch of new ideas, some of which worked brilliantly. The red rose tapestry, a jacquard that Matthew Williamson developed in-house, wove its way onto coats, beaded and hand-embroidered skirts and the capsule collection of leather totes and duffel bags that the designer is launching for fall.

However, Williamson’s new skirt silhouette — well below the knee, with knife pleats — was tricky and will be flattering to only the trimmest and most youthful of figures. But he hit the mark with his printed or sequin-pavéd eveningwear inspired by the glowing streaks of acid green from the northern lights. One dress in particular, a printed column with an Empire waist, was a stunner.

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