Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos deal almost exclusively in vividly engineered prints. The conundrum? Make those hyper-specific motifs new every time or be labeled with the fashion kiss of death: boring. Their fall collection was anything but, as the duo managed to elevate the familiar while injecting a sense of excitement and sophistication.

Some random online research turned up an El Greco painting that Pilotto said informed the dynamic color palette — golden yellow, red and soft pink, gray and gold — which the designers worked into intricate embroideries in metallic thread that related back to their prints. They appeared on terrific mannish coats with oversize shoulders, and cropped jackets shown over slim dresses. There were plenty of leanly sculpted dresses and puffer jackets to stay consistent with their past, but the new masculine silhouette (pants and flat shoes) carried the line into the future. It was strong yet streamlined enough to handle the color and intense patterns, and demonstrated Pilotto and De Vos’ creative and commercial savvy.