Last October, Helmut Lang creative directors Nicole and Michael Colovos saw Picasso’s “Black and White” exhibition at the Guggenheim. That, along with Richard Prince’s “Prince/Picasso” book, inspired them to rethink the particular art era for fall. The strong lineup featured graphic Cubist elements in interesting fabric combinations, i.e., a multicolored coat pieced together with felt and laminate to reflect movement, and several other sharply tailored looks mixing pony hair, leather, felt and wool. For the most part, the structured silhouettes skimmed the body, and suits were cut in a straight line.
The duo also worked Cubism through seaming and cutting, folding leather-trimmed dresses and skirts in angular lines that artfully mimicked Picasso’s iconic work. The results were visually compelling without forsaking any commercial appeal — a successful combination that drives this hot contemporary label.