Gilles Mendel worked luxe furs, trapunto-stitched leathers and liquid satin and velvet panne gowns into his fall lineup. Citing German artist Gerhard Richter as an inspiration, Mendel worked in an earthy palette of burgundy, copper and moss with pops of red and royal blue. A turtleneck dress in a rich moss-colored silk velvet stood out. His furs were a mixed bag. The cozy mink intarsia pullovers and black grooved mink coat, shown belted and over a blouse with a high white ermine collar, looked best.
For evening, there were some beautifully beaded chiffon gowns — some overworked with extraneous fur trims — and simple satin columns with interesting cuts at the neckline.