Marissa Webb described her sophomore collection as a steady evolution of the contrast between men’s wear and femininity that she laid out in her spring launch. Webb loves classic tailoring and leatherwork, as do a lot of designers these days, and she understands the details. She pointed out that the hem of a beautifully cut red-and-black plaid double-breasted jacket was lined in horse hair to accentuate the waist’s fitted hourglass shape. The piece was also trimmed in leather for a nice touch of luxury. A featherweight lavender shirt had a demonstrative collar embroidered with what resembled shattered glass and metal. It looked great under a mélange tweed T-shirt, also trimmed in leather. Styled to a tee, the looks could be broken down into novelty pieces that can stand alone, and have apparently already been doing so at retail. At Webb’s presentation, Barneys chief executive officer Mark Lee was overheard telling the designer that sell-through of her spring collection has been great so far.

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