Preshow, Olivier Theyskens pointed to “notions of futurism” as his design impetus for fall, stressing that, “It was very important for me that it doesn’t look utopian, but a more realistic version.” It was a great starting point, and he translated it with much appeal, from strong shoulders on tailored pieces to plays on proportion via several voluminous minidresses. They looked less Space Age and more modern — just how Theyskens intended. Several quilted fabrics added a playful cocoon touch, like the ivory peplum-top-and-skirt combo, which had a charming, ladylike allure. Theyskens also worked in some strong knits, including a white textured sweater shown with black quilted pants. If at times the lineup had the feel of elevated basics — a major talent like Theyskens can do more — there were still lots of great wardrobe pieces for the contemporary customer.

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