“This collection is all about paring down to what is essential,” read Maria Cornejo’s program notes. This may refer to less draping and more structure than in past seasons, but Cornejo has lost none of the arresting ways she works with fabrics and shapes. Her textures, especially the woven jacquards in red or blue with black, informed the varied proportions of her simplified, gracefully curved coats and pants. Structured shearling jackets and waistcoats in solid brushed mohair and alpaca were mixed with the jacquards to stunning effect.
As this season was more about fabric than ever before, Cornejo also offered a few knockout monotone looks, including a kimono jacket in a lacquered, pleated techno material over a silk shirt and leather pants, all in oxblood.