Ennio Capasa said his Costume National collection was partly inspired by China’s Miao tribe, but it was hard to detect any ethnic influences in this sea of black tailoring. There were clever plays on the tuxedo, from a sleeveless jacket with a single satin lapel to a multitiered, satin-edged dress layered over black pants.
Capasa nodded to this season’s textural plays via a navy coat with glossy black fur sleeves, and a side-zipped topper made from leather and wool. His inky palette of black and midnight blue was barely leavened by a handful of jacquard tops in a navy-and-rust striped cravat pattern, and a couple of coats in Ultra Brite white. Though there was plenty of grace in Capasa’s pared-down designs, the details at times drowned in the uniform display.