Christophe Lemaire’s fall collection for Hermès could not have been more on message with the invincible, ever-booming luxury behemoth’s ultratony branding, unless, perhaps, it was wrapped up in an orange box. The show was held at the Lycée Henri-IV, set up like a stately library filled with expensive, broken-in midcentury furniture, which the models meandered through, exuding an attitude of tradition, good taste and generations-old money with every step.
A studied composition of leather, suede, fur and impeccable cashmere, the clothes epitomized timeless bourgeois chic. There was minimalist drama in the spare cuts and styling. A camel fur coat was worn over a crisp white shirt and black leather pants that were tailored and cropped above the ankle. The model had another caramel-colored trench tossed over her shoulder for louche effect. A gorgeous navy coat had robust fur sleeves, shown with a white shirt and slim burgundy suede skirt. While most of the pieces qualified as classics — the aviator jackets and plainly luxe tailored separates done in loden green, navy, black and light gray, and the strappy wrap heels — there were touches of great novelty, too, in blanket capes and a multicolored chunky knit vest. Either way, buy a piece and wear it now, or wear it 50 years from now.