Issey Miyake creative director Yoshiyuki Miyamae delivered the boldest take yet on the tartan trend sweeping through this season. Though the program notes stated the collection was inspired by “the patterns and colors of landscapes as seen from the sky,” Miyamae appeared to have taken the opposite approach, putting plaid patterns under the microscope to blow up the fabric details into minimalist color blocks and diagonal grids. Standouts included a terrific selection of outerwear, from a wool and angora coat in a deep blue to a hot-pink checked trench made from a high-tech reversible bonded fabric.

Miyamae has had a bumpy ride since taking over as the house’s head of women’s design in 2011, with shows that were technically accomplished yet failed to tap into the zeitgeist. With this confident display, he now has a winner.