The biker jacket has had some play on the fall runways, and on Saturday morning, Junya Watanabe took it out for a ride of his own with a fresh and intelligent spin.
Watanabe artfully pieced together different materials like leather, denim and tartan for the moto coats and dresses, many of which combined tailored and languid elements. One dress, for instance, had a zippered white leather bodice with orange plaid sleeves and a matching sculpted skirt with ruffle detail.
The Japanese designer — who also used the show to debut some bags and looks from his capsule collaboration with Spanish luxury house Loewe — smartly evolved the motorcycle concept in abstract ways, such as placing allover zipper inserts on a tailored coat.
Often the vibe was casual while still striking the right edgy tone, i.e., the jackets in heavy men’s wear fabrics that topped baggy jeans in tartan and leopard-print patches.
By the show’s end, the singular theme felt repetitive, yet Watanabe still did a good job rendering the look with an apparent effortlessness that proved he’s an easy rider.