Cue the jet engines on the soundtrack. Creative director Nicola Formichetti and designer Sebastien Peigné approached their fall collection as if they were charged with wardrobe duty on the set of a sci-fi fantasy noir. They sought to capture “the idea of travel through time, in style,” as Formichetti stated in the show notes. There was more than a tinge of retro futurism in the surreal Sky Team uniforms the models wore, such as the gray cocoon jackets with vintage couture curved shoulders over slim skirts with bunchy kangaroo pockets. Worn with tight turtleneck hoods and pointy, elfin shoe-boots, there was an otherworldly awkwardness to the look.
Yet there’s something fun and amusing to Formichetti and Peigné’s bizarre vision. If the weird for weird’s sake grated — the furs with amorphous cutouts worn with tight caps that looked like brain matter — the shine on the black oil-slick patent leather jeans and wrap jacket was amazingly glossy and worked in chic contrast to fluffy white angora knits.