Lydia Maurer showed her second collection for Paco Rabanne in an all-white exhibition space — owned by fellow Space Age couturier Pierre Cardin — decorated with giant porthole shapes evoking a futuristic jetliner. And indeed, Maurer made a light-years leap with this concise display of tailored suits and fluid metal mesh dresses, inspired by the androgynous style of French pop icon Françoise Hardy.
A Mod-inspired trouser suit and an Empire waisted leather coat came in the navy blue of a pilot uniform, set off by shiny silver buttons. A metal mesh jumpsuit directly referenced a Sixties photograph of Hardy posing in a London park. The mesh was also worked into graphic dresses and kicky skirts, some paired with black mink sweaters.
With these crisp silhouettes, Maurer proved she can nod to the house’s heritage without resorting to pastiche.