Pedro Lourenço approached his fall collection with modernism and ease, not only in the clothes — which were more reality-based than past collections, where exuberance has trumped commercialism — but also by showing for the first time via the Digital Fashion Shows platform.

Silhouettes were simplified and understandable with Lourenço often using the sporty minimalism of great crepe trousers and tight cashmere turtlenecks — both done in crisp red, black and white — as a graphic base for show pieces. Some of the experimental stuff was just that, such as a cropped jacket that looked covered in deflated black balloons. But when Lourenço tempered his creative instincts he came up with winners, including a halter dress with open panels down the chest and a skirt of tiered lamé pleats.