Powerfully pushing his aesthetic forward without forsaking his dark sensibility, Rick Owens worked exquisite surface details and couture volumes with Japanese influences. The result was one of the designer’s best collections in recent memory, delivered with plenty of romance and some terrific clothes.

Owens started with the usual dramatic gesture (remember the flames and foam of past seasons?), this time with dense steam billowing out from one side of the backdrop. Models emerged through a cloudlike wall, their hair teased, tousled and often falling in front of the face for a visual that provided a heavenly touch to the clothes.

Here, Owens made a statement for layering and volume. Floor-length silhouettes were accentuated with exaggerated kimono sleeves; the hoodies on several coats came unzipped, falling around the shoulders like large ruffles for a lovely, studied elegance. The same goes for the rest of the outerwear — particularly the coats with prominent toggles, which led to a parade of mesmerizing surface decorations. Owens played with Whipstitching, weaving strings through eyelets like shoelaces on short coats, evolving the look with thick rope that artfully tied black-and-white panels together with a prominent knit. The effect was artful and chic.

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