Marco Zanini embraced the cozy textural mood that had Milan and some of New York cuddled up in sturdy yet soft fabrics earlier this season. It was an easy fit for his preference for offbeat retro references that sometimes feel like they beamed in from another dimension.
A sense of comfort permeated all levels, beginning with the materials, which included Prince of Wales wool and a great nubby bouclé used on a bounty of beautiful coats, and somewhat counter-intuitively on pencil skirts that struck the balance between pretty and quirky. There were also silk pajamas and a couple of oversize cocoon dresses that approximated a stylish version of the viral infomercial phenomenon of a few years ago, the Snuggie.
The statement fabrics were unapologetically thick, whether wool, fake fur or double duchesse. Cut into exaggerated volumes with classic couture shapes on grand trapeze coats and full skirts folded into big pleats, the clothes were weighty and grand, yet Zanini carried them off with a sense of ease, which was essential.