The giant print of wilting black-and-white sunflowers provided a striking backdrop to Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren’s fall runway. It looked poetic and strangely beautiful — sentiments that didn’t always cross into the clothes.


In a welcome move, the designers softened some of their verging-on-silly proclivities. Sticking to a black-and-white palette, they kept silhouettes ultrashort with pleated minidresses and quilted ruffle microskirts. Horsting and Snoeren occasionally injected a subtle Sixties London vibe — a black sleeveless minidress and double-breasted, cap-sleeved jumpsuit had a faint Mary Quant quality. Fanciful touches came elsewhere via overstated bows, from a giant one on the neckline of a white shirt to another on the shoulder of a gown. The designers also embroidered and embellished some of the clothes into a ripped trompe l’oeil effect. At times it looked strange, but added a new dimension.