“A vision of modern femininity delineated in bold, confident brushstrokes.” That’s how the Vionnet show notes described the fall collection, which was billed as the brand’s first fashion show on the official Paris calendar.

Founder Madeleine Vionnet is best known for her Grecian column dresses and the bias cut, and here, owner and creative director Goga Ashkenazi and her design team played with those codes, though with a faint Eighties sensibility that sometimes leaned toward severe.

Elaborately folded coats and dresses were bonded with a contrast-colored fabric — a black jacket showed glimpses of green, a leather skirt revealed blue — for a heavy-handed construction that overwhelmed the garments.

Elsewhere, strong pieces included a tailored blue ponyskin coat and a chic ribbed knit blue sweater over slim-cut pants. Dresses made from different furs patched together and resembling a bias cut were not for everyone, but they still made for some intriguing views.

Ashkenazi’s challenge at Vionnet is to redefine the house formula, thrusting it forward. Fall provided a glimpse into her vision, though the clothes are still a work in progress.

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