It was surprising Wolfgang Joop didn’t pick “Fields of Gold” for the soundtrack of his fall show, which was meant to evoke the idea of a city gal hanging out in the countryside. There were sporty tweeds on loose-cut coats and dresses — a little rough on the edges for a more rural feel. Flowery screen-print motifs on stiff coats matched with printed leggings and flat ankle leather boots were indeed bucolic, although they wouldn’t seem out of place in the city either. To evoke what he called “cornfields after harvest,” Joop used a fabric spun from hemp and woolen yarn for a cozy oversize coat worn over a thin hooded parka.
At times the looks felt too provincial, with the mostly clay, gray and khaki palette underscoring Joop’s rather sober approach.