Since launching his line four seasons ago, Chinese designer Yang Li has been slowly building a voice and securing some solid retail relationships. For his first attempt on the runway, Li featured an open backstage and big screens so the audience could follow the action on and behind the runway.

The condensed collection continued on Li’s “wardrobe staples,” this season with some great outerwear. The best looks included biker jackets in grainy dark green or burgundy leather with big industrial zippers, and generously cut coats in lacquered mohair wool.

Li added a little couture-like twist with pinstriped Lurex and wool suits and little bouclé jackets worn with enormous floor-sweeping skirts done in enough fabric to build a military camp.