“I kind of feel like Katharine Hepburn, which makes me very happy,” model and actress Dree Hemingway enthused at the Agnona presentation, dressed in the brand’s white shirt, wide-leg navy trousers and cashmere cardigan with a scarflike protrusion warming her neck.

Stefano Pilati’s second collection for Agnona harked back to its inception in 1953, with the Italian designer digging into the house’s fabric archive and turning out luxurious and handsome separates that were vaguely retro. Roomy coats, tops and dresses in double-faced cashmere boasted curving, wavelike seams — in navy and black for day, in more vibrant combos for cocktail. The clothes were displayed on racks, and editors jostled to stroke the lambskin bomber, the deerskin coat lined in cashmere fluff and the handloomed sweaters patched with shaggy sheepskin. Pilati also unveiled his first handbag for the brand, a trapezoid satchel dubbed the Cara and reminiscent of Fifties sports bags.

Hemingway, the face of Agnona’s spring campaign, is to reprise the role for another season, and the firm plans to open a boutique on New York’s Madison Avenue later this year.