With Milan’s renewed efforts to spotlight emerging talent, there was an impressive turnout for Au Jour Le Jour’s runway debut, held at the Teatro Armani space. With their fall collection, designers Diego Marquez and Mirko Fontana demonstrated a real comfort level given the large venue.

“European girls who move in all capitals, day and night,” is how Marquez described their inspiration backstage before the show. The lineup sweetly played with whimsical patterns and great furs, all done in silhouettes that veered Sixties. They worked fun dog and cat motifs into the clothes, from prints on shift dresses and tops to white intarsia motifs on furs, as in a red coat and a purple T-shirt dress.


Equally charming were the open-mouth visuals. On a white coat, for example, crystals were adorned on the teeth like braces. Frivolous, perhaps, but the look provided a nice Saturday-morning jolt of energy.