Naming his fall collection “Less & More,” Brunello Cucinelli worked the contrast by balancing clean and simple shapes with innovative material play. The latter often subverted fabric-use norms. A coat that looked like fur, for instance, was actually made of cashmere while a color-blocked sweatshirt in black, brown and blush was done in mink. Active touches were added to the lineup, most notably via the white cashmere sweats playfully accessorized with a mink tie for a mannish and cool effect.

Cucinelli also ventured into evening for fall. One standout: a black cashmere top textured to appear marbleized and embedded with the designer’s signature chainlike detail. Shown with a full, layered tulle skirt, the look exuded a casual-luxe sensibility.

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