Citing Kazimir Malevich’s “Black Square” and Joachim Bandau’s watercolors in his show notes, Gabriele Colangelo made a statement for innovative pattern play.

The designer used the quadrangle as the base for many of his designs, whether in waffle textures or geometric fil coupé work on wool. The standouts, though, were the more subtle, almost abstract treatments of the theme, such as a skirt done in chiffon squares graphically placed in studied gradations of black into gray and white. It had a chic ombré effect, and when teamed with a chunky black-and-white cocoon turtleneck, looked coolly modernist while still feminine — like much of this appealing collection.