Les Copains, the 60-year-old label known for its luxury knitwear, is in the midst of an overhaul. Set on repositioning itself with a focus on international and retail expansion, the company has made two big hires this year, tapping Peter Som in January to head the contemporary line Les Copains Blue, and Graeme Black to design the main line.

Black presented his first collection on Friday. Done in a meek palette of black, gray and mauve, one of the dominant looks was the chunky sweater, some with bows and ruffles, over droopy track pant/jodhpur hybrid. It seemed like an attempt to merge the sporty with classic femininity, but it ended up in limbo.

The knits looked made from fine materials — angora, mohair and cashmere — but what to make of the intarsias bearing reindeer and butterfly motifs? Given the range of looks, Black’s vision remains unclear.