Once guests got past the overcrowded entrance at Luisa Beccaria’s via Gesù venue, the designer presented a fall lineup that stayed within her comfort zone. That meant, for the most part, feminine and ladylike silhouettes infused with soft romance, from lingerie details to shimmery lace.

There were several cocktail dresses, including fit-and-flare shapes with embellished necklines, that wouldn’t have looked out of place on the Italian Riviera circa 1950. It was the more unexpected looks — plain, almost austere silhouettes in gray including a V-neck sweater with a full skirt and a dirndl-like dress — that proved Beccaria still has a few surprises up her sleeve.