This Max Mara group brand is slithering out of the austerity mold with a surfeit of python skin — along with a herd of leopard prints. Streamlined shapes including tubular coats, narrow capes, boxy sweaters and A-line skirts tempered the glossy and fuzzy patterns. Military and equestrian references were etched lightly in this sleek, energetic collection.

Fabric blocking has become a running story in Milan, and here the forearms of wool blazers were sheathed in plain or reptile leather, giving them a tougher aspect, while dresses with plunging V-necklines were composites of jersey, wool, snakeskin and leather.

Abstract artists provided the main print story. While Jackson Pollock-esque drips and squiggles were often too much on jacquard skirts and fuzzy mohair tunics, Mark Rothko-inspired bands of color looked gorgeous embedded on wool coats and jackets.