Given Trussardi’s heritage in leather goods, it was no surprise that the fall show opened with a tank dress with a trumpet skirt cut from thick black leather. Less understandable was the clumsy cut and fit. 

Gaia Trussardi’s press notes emphasized weighty materials but she had a lighter touch with the hearty men’s wear fabrics, such as tweed, Prince of Wales plaids and herringbone that was worked on oversize sweaters and pleated skirts.

The collection was full of wearable riffs on classics yet it felt a bit contemporary for a luxury label, particularly when it came to the sweatshirts and a utility jumpsuit decorated with emblems.