Phillip Lim gave his imaginary fall muse a name and an identity: “Soleil — a fun and culturally curious woman. Her world is somewhere between instant pop and culture.” It’s the kind of ambiguous statement that can make show notes amusing and maddening, but improbably enough, it made sense.
It was a dynamic collection, a sharp mix of cartoony colors, exaggerated proportions and tweaked classics that felt modern and offered range. The first half of the show seemed apropos of a culture driven by attracting attention, likes and page views — an abstract “shadow print” of pastels set against black and white gave animated pop to sporty shapes like slouchy pants, a bomber jacket and a cutaway jean jacket. The latter introduced a stretch of cool and quirky outerwear, as Lim reimagined the classic boxy denim jacket in bright lasered shearling, which he also worked into longer, multicolored coats.
Then he segued into a more neutral palette of khaki, gray and black, mashing up slouchy tailoring and oversize knits such as a chunky navy turtleneck with ruffles styled for relaxed, boyish appeal.