If technique, the element of surprise and endless mixes of color and texture are what you want in a fur, then Gilles Mendel is your man.

His collection for J.Mendel was all about bold geometric coats and jackets — some dizzying with the number of elements combined in a single piece. Consider, for instance, a chevron intarsia fox-front jacket with diagonal panels in emerald eel and a sapphire mink breastplate. If that’s not enough to take in, it was shown with an emerald eel skirt with an asymmetric front slit.

But for all the impressive technical know-how these looks showed, it was the less-contrived furs and dresses that were the best of show. A long plaid mink vest over an emerald leather turtleneck was a chicer, more restrained version of the trickier show pieces. Mendel even went stark with solid leather sheaths, and soothing with a delicate off-white and taupe knitted fox capelet.