Georgia May. In case anyone missed her on the Rag & Bone runway, or was too engrossed with the clothes, the name of Mick Jagger’s daughter was embroidered on the back of the crepe bowling shirt she wore. Joan Smalls and a couple other models got the same personalized treatment, a touch of Fifties kitsch in a collection that otherwise firmly adhered to the line’s ethos of cool.
The retro thing was real but thankfully not literal. “Frank Sinatra meets Fifties bowling and English Teddy Boys,” said Marcus Wainwright, noting some of the tight, lace-up high-waisted pants and cropped jackets. As the season dictates, outerwear was important, and the lineup had ample to offer in the category, whether the giant gray leather and shearling coat, the fluffy buffalo-checked parka or the crazy, hairy knit jacket that was reprised as festive hobo bag.
There were also moments of English military, Coogi sweaters — remember them? — grunge and an all-American spirit in the forest-green plaids, shearlings and cowhide motifs, which Wainwright and his partner David Neville savvily finessed into a singular point of view. Wainwright filed the look under “cool clothes for cool girls.” We agree.