“I’m so not playing the game,” said Jean Touitou at his fall presentation for A.P.C. Lamenting the industry’s obsession with trends and often unwearable clothes, the brand’s founder and owner spoke out against grunge, “the bourgeois look of the moment,” as he called it. “I can’t stand it, it’s totally unsexy. If I see another biker jacket…”

Instead, Touitou focused on basics, showing a mix of rather preppy separates harking back to schoolgirls’ uniforms and what the designer referred to as the “innocent sexiness of the stewardess.” There were demure blouses with foliage prints and A-shaped skirts, and a light-gray flannel lumberjack shirt worn with a dark-blue denim skirt, while more extravagant numbers included a loosely cut jumpsuit and denim overalls over a blouse.

Touitou also featured rain boots done in leather, which the brand sourced via its new capacity as a leather converter, securing A.P.C. better access to raw skin and cutting down costs.