Backstage before the show, Fausto Puglisi said he wanted to make Emanuel Ungaro a “big brand” again, but that he knew there is a lot of work to do. A step in the right direction, his fall lineup was for “a girl who is tired of showing off, who prefers to dress for herself.” Puglisi noted that this season there’s “no bling, no belt, no gold or accessories.”

The designer mined the Ungaro archives and applied simplicity (Fausto style) and functionality. The sole two prints — one in black-and-white stripes, another in a large black, white and red rose motif — looked fresh on masculine silhouettes including sporty wool sweaters and a leather jacket. Elsewhere, the floral pattern read more romantic on softer shapes, most notably a lovely Fifties-inspired dress.

The embellishments weren’t completely lacking. Gentle sparkling flower appliqués came on the shoulders of a bulky men’s coat, while feathers made an appearance on straight-cut skirts matched with either a sober black leather T-shirt or slouchy sweater. All in all, this was a respectable effort toward rebuilding a once-traumatized house.