Jean-Charles de Castelbajac coined his fall collection “Sportsoir,” code, per the show notes, for “sporty in Paris and evening in New York.” With that idea, plus the work of surrealist German artist Meret Oppenheim as inspiration, things could have gone the way of the delightful excess for which the designer is known, but he demonstrated restraint — perhaps too much so.

Castelbajac worked his artistic references subtly, including an embroidered motif of a woman’s face on a wool sweater, shown with a green wool and cashmere jacket and a draped silk satin skirt. Woolly jacquard stars came on a tailored coat, accessorized with a matching muffler.

Even bolder patterns, like a colorful repetition of those faces on a quilted blanket coat, blended in like a subdued camouflage. Like much in the collection, these looks were commercial, if safe, and could have used a little more of the zest that is expected of Castelbajac.