House of Holland: Henry Holland may have made his name with a tongue-in-cheek approach to ready-to-wear — he started out designing slogan T-shirts — but his cool fall collection telegraphed something of a departure from that mood. It was still youthful, but there was a tougher, more substantial feel to the clothes.

Models emerged on an industrial conveyor-belt runway wearing oversize striped smock dresses with black net underskirts. There were plenty of inventive fabrics, too, such as jacquards in shades of blue and green or pink and purple, which Holland worked into knee-length shift dresses or wide culottes, and yards of Mongolian sheepskin, which he fashioned into scarves or shaggy waistcoats in pink-and-red chevrons. Heavy, rubber-soled oxfords and Chelsea boots — along with black rubber leggings and bandeau belts — heightened the collection’s rebellious vibe.


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