Jamie O’Hare’s appointment as creative director seems to have heralded a darkly glamorous, more rock-’n’-roll mood for Issa, which was once the young London socialites’ go-to label for work and play. The relaxed, girlish shapes the house had most recently championed were gone, replaced by looks that mined a more straightforward sexiness, as in slinky maxidresses with slashed necklines and minidresses with thigh-skimming skirts, accented with silky fringe or crystal embellishments.

In his show notes, O’Hare said he wanted to nod to “the confidence and sensuality of the Issa woman,” which aside from the sheer fabrics and shortened hems, came through in pieces such as a cocoon coat woven in black-and-white crocodile print jacquard and another one made entirely of heavy black fringing. While the designs may not have been groundbreaking, the collection marked a clear new direction for the label.

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