Levi Palmer and Luke Harding’s fall collection had a dark undercurrent running through it.

Inspired by Helmut Newton’s subversively sexy women and photographer Julia Fullerton-Batten’s work exploring the transition from puberty to womanhood, they showed a lineup that played with pattern and draping in clothes meant for powerful women.

Velvet stripes of varying widths came on well-cut white silk shirts or over tweed dresses and outerwear, lending a lean graphic look to the clothes.

Pieces of silk were knotted over stiff skirts and dresses, conferring a Masai-wrapping effect, while several navy shawl-collar dressing gown coats, belted with ties, looked both cozy and elegant.