Sir Paul Smith reprised the blanket-check flannels — and a faint whiff of the Seventies — from his men’s show in Paris for this strong women’s outing. A reprieve from all the party dresses parading elsewhere in London, Smith homed in on quietly cool daywear and put the spotlight on tailoring.
Long and loose collarless robes or slim Victorian redingotes were terrific teamed with flared pants or culottes, a key look in the collection and often worn with cognac ankle boots.
Slouchy, oversize sweaters and long mannish shirts, items popularized in recent years by Phoebe Philo, underpinned hefty shearlings in mustard or putty — some with fuzzy, exposed seams — a roomy raspberry-colored coat and a sleek, white double-breasted one, as well as cozy vests with the clipped wool exposed.
Retailers will surely cheer the lightweight tailoring, including peplum vests and mannish trouser suits in light flannels. While quiet and spare — save for those long checked coats — this collection will undoubtedly have stealth appeal come fall.