Princess Julia, a doyenne of London’s fashion and club scene — and her brand of dressed-up glamour — served as Peter Jensen’s muse for fall. “I’ve known her for years and years,” said Jensen, who aimed to capture the spirit of the New Romantic era when the deejay and writer first hit clubs such as London’s Blitz with the likes of Boy George and Leigh Bowery.
Jensen filtered all the glitz and exuberance of the Eighties into easy, youthful silhouettes. Cue looks such as a track pant and T-shirt combo in pink Lurex, or an A-line bustier dress done in a brushstroke print in reds, blues and yellows, designed to resemble Julia taking her colorful makeup off after a night out. Jensen also worked up some lady-like, structured looks, such as a black pencil skirt overlaid with a tulle peplum, while a shift dress in a textured bouclé fabric had a stiff ruffle at one leg. “I wanted [the collection] to be a take on the shapes or weird details that she was wearing at that time, and update them into something that was a bit more modern and a bit more now,” he said.