Simone Rocha looked to the work of Louise Bourgeois — and in particular to the tapestries and to the artist’s 1991 work Mamelles – for this collection that balanced sculptural silhouettes with ethereal ones. The designer said before the show said she was looking in particular at the actions of mending and unraveling fabric, and at the sensitive, rounded shapes of the female form.

The result, while not a major step forward for the designer, was fresh and feminine and filled with all the Rocha signatures that keep press and buyers coming back for more: Ruffles thick and thin, sheer and embroidered fabrics and embellished shoulders on outerwear.

Rocha sent out dramatic tapestry capes and dresses, some with ruffled edges, and belted wool coats with elliptic sleeves and fur or fabric appliques atop the shoulder. Thick black velvet dresses, their fabric twisted around the female form, or cut out at the back, and stiff trapeze jackets paired with skirts or shorts were all fit for Rocha’s warrior women.

Fluttery embroidered tulle dresses, many of them done in light pink, a nod to Bourgeois’ 1991 breast sculpture. One long black one resembling a Victorian nightgown, as well as black embroidery on sheer fabrics showed off Rocha’s lighter side.