Rob Jones and Catherine Teatum channeled the no-nonsense masculinity of Northern English coal miners, circa the Sixties, into a collection that balanced delicate bias-cut silk devoré dresses with boxy-shouldered jacquard outerwear.
The designers blew up a hound’s tooth 500% and turned it into a red and gray or blue and gold jacquard that came in below-the-knee flip-hem panel skirts with matching jackets that had mannish square shoulders and were trimmed with raw-edge strips of a contrasting check.
Dance-floor parquetry and the Northern Soul music movement inspired the devoré burn-out pattern and the varnished wooden embellishment on a strapless jumpsuit and a precision-cut bodice dress.
A stiff minidress with rounded shoulders wasn’t as pretty as the fluid paneled silk ones that wafted under strong outerwear like a great blue hound’s tooth parka.