For his first full collection as creative director, Anthony Vaccarello evoked the spirit of Versus in its Nineties heyday, and looked to images of those collections captured by snappers including Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton, and Bruce Weber. Since 2013, this collection has been a seasonless one, and Vaccarello’s 17 looks, which have an autumnal feel, will go on sale online and in-store later this week.
The collection is packed with tailored topcoats, flannel shirts, and lightweight wool tartans in earth tones such as olive, berry red and brown. Vaccarello used those tartans for leg-flashing pleated kilts or the pleated edging on dresses with sculpted, asymmetrical hemlines. He also paired a dark, floor-grazing kilt with a thick mohair knit inspired by a Weber image of Kristen McMenamy from two decades ago.
Vaccarello played with denim, too, covering tops, skirts and jeans with the Versus lion’s head logo done in faded devoré. “I really wanted this collection to be less conceptual and easy to understand, and to create pieces that can last through the seasons,” said the designer, whose evening looks included very little black dresses, some strapless, others draped with kilt-like fastenings, and others still with flippy pleated skirts, all adorned with the Versus lion stud logo.