Shapes ahoy! Stefano Pilati unfurled a host of alluring silhouettes at his fall Agnona presentation, alongside an impressive new showroom boasting striped stone floors and columns wrapped in rugged mooring lines.
The Italian designer has never been the sort to overly embellish clothes, which makes him an ideal choice to exalt the luscious textiles of parent company Ermenegildo Zegna. Here was an expanded effort from spring, spanning three apparel themes, two of them offshoots of Pilati’s latest men’s show.
Muddy Shetlands and heritage tweeds were carved into long coats, either with that oversize swagger the designer favors and wears so well, or slim on top and gently flaring over robust cable-knit dresses with chunky dreadlock fringe. A more minimalist grouping in black double-face cashmere included cocooning coats and cropped blousons toughened with utility pockets, another element reprised from the men’s collection. Strict midiskirts came with a swag of fabric gathered at one side, adding a feminine flourish to the empowering tailoring Pilati considers a key code for Agnona.
“Fabrics, cuts, fluidity,” he said. “Ultimately, I think it’s a chic attitude that you don’t go to extremes.”