Austrian Arthur Arbesser, who is among the finalists in the second edition of the LVMH Prize for up-and-coming designers, took attendees at his presentation on an imaginative trip through his native land. The installation featured solely made-in-Austria elements: paintings by contemporary artist Hermann Nitsch decorated the walls as models seated on Austrian-designed chairs listened to a Schubert composition played by an Austrian pianist using an Austrian piano.
The collection also showcased links to the alpine nation, such as a green-and-gray bomber with a faux-fur collar worked in an original Austrian hand-woven loden fabric. A range of looks, including a sweater paired with a pleated skirt and a sharply cut coat and flared pants, featured a colorful graphic pattern inspired by the works of Wien-based artists from the Twenties. Arbesser did embrace a more feminine aesthetic than in past seasons, but he continued a masculine infusion via utilitarian and industrial-inspired elements — especially the comfortable jumpsuits, worked in green silk or soft gray wool and decorated with zips and applied pockets.