Designers Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez set aside the playful, cute look of Au Jour Le Jour’s past collections to embrace a bold, eccentric aesthetic for fall. This unexpected change of direction didn’t work in their favor.

The duo channeled a Seventies disco theme into overwrought looks done with an abundance of flashy colors, shiny details and crowded patterns that read as loud and unappealing. For example, a maxi coat with an allover micro print of headphones, embellished with a bright pink faux-fur collar, topped a draped bodysuit in the same motif. This was worn over graphic stockings, a trademark that accessorized a wide range of looks.

A colorful silhouette of the designers’ muse, Bianca Jagger — used on a tunic, a skirt and a wool sweater — honored her Studio 54 dancing days, and short denim dresses and trousers were embroidered with metallic appliqués. It was all rather overwhelming, and given the inexpensive-looking fabrics used, it didn’t feel fresh or luxurious.