Cosmic energy is a powerful thing for those who believe in it. Peter Dundas let the mystical allure of the zodiac guide his fall collection with results that were pretty divine.
Astrology had a lot to offer the Pucci ethos. It’s the study of sexy star power, the mystery and potential of the night sky articulated through its symbols, which Dundas reimagined in the house language of swirling prints and surface decoration. He made quick work of the Pucci codes, opening with three black-and-white turtleneck tunic dresses with over-the-knee boots, both in optical patterns, and closing the show by translating the zodiac into colorful graphic patterns, hand-painted on long T-shirt dresses.
The rest of the clothes referenced Stevie Nicks and Jimmy Page to bring everything into the orbit of Dundas’ Seventies comfort zone. It made for a rich bohemian story, with moments of dandy glam in the swish of wide-leg trousers in navy and burgundy velvet, and gypsy rock in fringed skirts and a billowing cobalt gown worn with a black ribbon choker. One of the best looks was a sweeping tailored coat in crushed blue velvet embroidered with gold star signs and worn over a filmy gown.
Dundas wouldn’t comment on speculation that this was his last collection for Pucci — and that he may return to Roberto Cavalli. Yet it was tempting to read into his answer when asked about looking to the cosmos for inspiration: “Sometimes in life you don’t really know what’s going to happen and wonderful things do.”